The problems of the celebrity "designed" fashion collection

Posted in Uncategorized by liztregenza

A recent blog post I wrote on future vintage got me thinking a lot about the craft/ practice of fashion design as a whole and the fact that now it seems that anyone believes they can design a fashion collection, despite no formal training. One of my favourite comments on the topic came from a twitter follower geckocomms who stated: “it’s interesting no one would expect to just design a house / a plane / a – well anything, except fashion.”

So first off where did this trend begin?

Well it seems the trend for celebrities designing their own collections kicked in back in 1998 with Sean Combs/ Puff Daddy/ P Diddy’s sportswear range, which in 2010 had an annual turnover of 500million. On into the noughties we marched forward with more celebrities introducing their own fashion brands, Jenifer Lopez started her J-Lo collection in 2001 which at the time was pretty popular in the states. I have particular issues with her attitude towards her more recent (2011) collaboration with Kohl’s, suggesting that designs for the collection were based on those from her closet.

THAT ISN’T DESIGN…THAT’S COPYING

Although, these examples I’ve mentioned so far are US based, I think it was 2007 when the trend really kicked in, in the UK with the Lily Allen Loves collection for New Look, Kate Moss for Topshop and Madonna for H and M.

I mentioned Kate Moss in my previous blog post which I think was one of the most successful fashion collaborations and really saw this trend increase, unfortunately this seemed to have the effect of suggesting that design can just mean ripping off pieces from your own wardrobe. Not cool, not cool at all.

I LOVE this quote from Jeff Banks about her first Topshop collection ” “Can Kate sharpen a pencil or draw a matchstick man? Banks asked. “I wouldn’t put money on it. I’ll bet [Kate Moss] just grabbed one of her many Prada bags, rifled through her wardrobe … and turned up at Topshop’s head office in Oxford Street for a quick hour’s briefing with the in-house designers and buying staff.”

A few key examples of the “wardrobe copy” (from the Daily Fail I’m afraid) – The original hacked Bus Stop dress also sends shivers down my spine, and I wrote about it extensively in my dissertation.

You can also read more about the Bus stop copy on Liz Eggleston’s blog

In the UK at least I think this all came off the back of a huge surge of what I call high/low collaborations. Popularised I feel by the Karl Lagerfeld collection for H and M in 2004.

The thing is the effect seems to have snowballed to insane levels now. I can see the design merit of Victoria Beckham’s collections but examples from the past year alone are seeing the trend getting out of hand with the likes of:

Rihanna for Emporio Armani

Agyness Deyn for Dr Martens

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley for Marks & Spencer

Kelly Brook for New Look

So why do I think this is such a bad idea? There are a few reasons (and I will say I have no problem with high/ low collaborations. I appreciate that this a chance for a little bit of infiltration of high end designers down)

My main problem is it devalues the work of a real fashion designer. As a former fashion student I will tell you that fashion is HARD. Doing a degree in fashion design was the toughest thing I have ever done, I had to work my socks off to even get a mediocre grade. Not only do you have to be able to draw clothes, but you need to be able to research effectively and ideally pattern cut and actually make clothes (saying that some of the best know designers of all time ahem Dior couldn’t pattern cut, but his desing skills negated the need for this skill).

Studying fashion properly teaches you the importance of RESEARCH. Research is not copying, yes the greatest designers often take inspiration from designs of the past (John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood are perfect examples of this) but they didn’t copy. By UNDERSTANDING THE CRAFT of design they were able to draw inspiration from other pieces but make them their own.

And finally my problem that the celebrity collection seems to suggest the acceptability of copying to all.

I’ll also draw on an interesting comment recently made on Facebook by incredibly talented handbag designer Karina Hesketh (you can see her bags here) She stated.

“So many people ask me if I would make up their designs…a design is not a picture from a magazine, that is plagarism and infringement of someone elses copyright. A design is a good technical drawing accompanied by an accurate pattern with a specification sheet of stress points, cutting instructions and a host of other pointers…..it can take years to learn how to become a good pattern maker, it is the very essence of all design! “

Well put Karina

The problem is that I think the celebrity effect has caused this idea that anyone can be a designer, and, I’m sorry but this just isn’t the case. This almost gripes me as much as the misuse of the term curator… but again I’ll save that for another post.

So overall I’ll finish on this. To the celebrities out there who think they are designers, in a good 90% of cases you’re not, rather you are just a very well paid canny marketing ploy : )

27Jun2012

Shopping in New York: Vintage

Posted in Uncategorized by liztregenza

Now onto my third post on New York; Vintage.

I will state that overall I didn’t particularly rate the vintage in New York. This was for two reasons 1) It was mostly over priced (I’m talking over $200 for a simple 50s dress in some shops) and 2) a hell of a lot of the vintage stores were more consignment/ thrift stores that had mostly 80s and later stuff. I can see the market for this, but it just really isn’t my scene.

So, here is a little rundown featuring some of the places I visited for vintage in New York:

First off, Brooklyn flea

I LOVED this place. Located in a very pretty leafy and quiet part of Brooklyn this flea market runs on Saturdays and Sundays and features great vintage clothing, homeware and jewellery. There were a few really good sellers there. One selling possibly the most sensational deadstock sunglasses I have ever seen ($125 on average per pair) and another selling lovely clothes mostly from the 40s and 50s including a wonderful range of swimsuits.You can find the sellers blog here. Keep a look out for the shots from the fair and you might just spot me there : )

Williamsburg

(don’t do a me and think, its not that far from Brooklyn to Williamsburg, I’ll walk. In the midday june heat this was a seriously bad idea…get the subway instead)

Williamsburg has a great vibe about it and has a plethora of vintage stores dotted around. The central Bedford avenue also has a great selection of eateries and coffee shops, and on the day I was there lots of street vendors too. To me this had a real air of Brightons Lanes about it. A great place to visit but the well known vintage stores there like Beacons Closet were along the lines of Beyond retro with most pieces dating to the 80s, or in some cases newer.

Lower East side and East village

I whiled away a few hours wandering around the streets here and I have to say if you want older vintage to head to Lower East side. There were a few great (although pricey) vintage shops here. Especially on Ludlow Avenue and Orchard Avenue. I did stumble across a great street fair though. Hester street fair, where I picked up my only goodies of the trip. Here there were lots of craft sellers and also vintage sellers and food stalls. My purchases were a great bag and dress from seller Cotillion, who you can see more of on her website (incredibly reasonably priced and some of the nicest hats I have seen in a long time)

I’m sad to say that the dress may have to leave my collection (its a tad big on the bust, and I already have a big enough alteration pile…but i will update if i decide to sell it on!)

So that is my brief rundown of New York vintage, of course there is lots more to visit vintage wise but with only four days in New York I fitted in as much as I could. I have heard great things about Hells Kitchen flea, so I believe this is well worth a trip too, and I will have to make a visit out there on my next trip to the big apple!

24Jun2012

My final farewell to Leeds

Posted in Uncategorized by liztregenza

So, its over.

This is probably one of the most emotional posts I’ve ever written. Not strictly what I normally write about, but I feel it is a must.

Today after four of the craziest years of my life I said my final farewell to Leeds. I honestly can’t quite believe that my undergraduate degree and my life as a student of the University of Leeds has come to an end. I actually finished my degree way back in mid may but I’ve still been in the good city of Leeds since.

I remember way back in 2008 when I started my degree and hating it more than I can possibly explain, there were so many occasions when I wanted to quit (mostly because I felt I couldn’t do my course) but I am so glad that I stuck it out. If I hadn’t done my course I would have never done my year in industry and worked out my true vocation. I think the year out I had changed me for the better, and if anyone else out there is currently on a design based degree I can not recommend it highly enough. Everyone I know who did a year in industry benefitted from it immeasurably and not only that came back focused and ready for their final year.

I have to say a huge thank you to people for making the last four years so amazing, girls from my course, friends I’ve made along the way, tutors, everyone. There’s certainly been good times, and also horrendously bad times but I’ve come out of this experience knowing what I want to do with my life and having made some (what I hope will be) lifelong friends.

The biggest thanks though probably has to go to my housemates who I’ve lived with this year. Ally, Derms, Janet and Vic have helped to make final year of uni an amazing experience and also the year in which I FINALLY truly enjoyed being in Leeds. I have to say an especially big thank you to Vic. Poor girl has had to deal with a lot from me (I’ll never forget her birthday in second year when she looked after me when I was hysterically crying under the kitchen table- true friendship there). Not only have we done the same course but we’ve also lived together throughout the three years I spent studying in Leeds.

I honestly can’t believe I wont be living with these ladies anymore they are four of my best friends and also four of the most amazing people I know. 2 superbly talented fashion students ( the pride i felt watching Vix and Janets clothes go down the catwalk of the uni fashion show…oh my), one textile student (whose knit designs are simply top notch) and one law student who is perhaps one of the best cooks i know (Ally if it all goes tits up you can come and be my personal cook : )).It gets me all emotional just thinking about the fact i’ve left, I’ve loved not only spending this year living with them but also the fantastic house we lived in in Woodhouse (we had the sweetest landlord ever). I know I’ve been a pain with my hideous messiness over the year and the fact that my vintage clothing seems to explode EVERYWHERE within the house so thank goodness they have put up with me for this long.