Vintage obsessions: Susan Small



Susan Small began in the early 1940’s ( I think it may have been in 1941 or 2). The company was founded by Leslie Carr Jones. The head designer from 1943 onwards was Maureen Baker. Baker was proably best known for desiging Princess Anne’s wedding dress.
In 1947 Susan Small joined with other design firms such as Horrockses and Polly Peck to form the Model House Group. The purpose of this organization was to pool their resources to attract new buyers to combined shows. This became the Fashion House Group in 1958, with Leslie Carr Jones as its head.
The company was probably best known for their party dresses and evening wear.
The company was bought out by Courtalds in the 1970’s. Maureen Baker left to set up her own company (under the patronage of Princess Anne in 1978)

Susan small also had the licensing rights to produce some Christian Dior designs in the U.K., one of the most famous was the zemire dress (named after an opera by Gretry).

What I find very interesting about Susan Small is that it was actually designed for the petite lady (to begin with at least, as some of the advertisements here show) In the 50s Susan Small was quite an expensive brand with dresses costing you anything up to around 20gns. The garments tend to be well made, with most of the evening dresses I have found being dry clean only. Susan Small regularly advertised in Vogue magazine.

Hampshire Museum service has a large number of dresses by Susan Small (one of which is shown in a previous blog post). Here are a few of my favourite examples which really demonstrate the breadth of designs produced by the company.



This dress is quite a casual example in a bold salmon pink. The dress is made from a synthetic fabric and dates to around 1965. As can be seen it has one of the later Susan Small labels.
HMCMS:C2001.42

This dress was worn in 1953 to a wedding, and is a simple but stylish frock. It is made from a lightweight cotton fabric and has a zip fastening. The sweetheart neckline gives the effect almost of a bolero jacket being worn over the dress. This has the earlier Susan Small label with the red font for the two S’s.
HMCMS:C2002.5

And last but not least this STUNNING example. This is a real show stopper of an evening dress, excellent made (just look at the detailing on the straps!) and featuring one of my favourite (if not my absolute favourite) colour combination olive green and shocking pink. The dress dates to 1954.




HMCMS:C2006.509

Vintage obsessions: Blanes


Brand two in my list of vintage obsessions!

Blanes- Blanes produced mostly high quality evening wear throughout the 50s and 60’s (possibly onto the 70s- but I am yet to find an example). They did also produce some daywear, although I find you are less likely to come across this!

The two examples above prove why i LOVE Blanes and i am desperate to come across some good examples of their day wear. When i was at vintage @ Goodwood last year i saw an amazing novelty print dress by Blanes, but it was £150 and at the time i just didn’t have the money. I have regretted not buying it ever since!

I personally don’t own any good examples of the brand. Normally for me this is a seller rather than a keeper as I find the dresses tend to be quite heavy.

This is one I am selling at the moment. I believe it is an early 1960’s example.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270753332788&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_856wt_1141

And this is one currently out on display at Portsmouth city museum. We believe it was never even worn!


HMCMS:C1990.48.3

Vintage obsessions: Rhona Roy





Surprisingly (some may say) beyond Horrockses there are a few other labels I am really interested in, and that I get very excited over when I come across.

I am going to try and do an individual blog post about each of my “big labels” T o show off some of the fantastic examples I have found here there and everywhere!

Rhona Roy

A label I have managed to find very little information on, but the brand did produce a lot of beautiful cotton dresses in a similar vein to Horrockses, right through the 50’s. I have seen the Rhona Roy label appear as late as the 1970s. There was a main line labelled simply “Rhona Roy” and a line for the younger teenage girl called young ideas by Rhona Roy.

This example comes from the Hampshire museum service collection and is truly a head turner (one of those rarities that has its original bolero too!) The minty colour is so perfectly summery too. Mmmmm making me think about pistachio ice cream. It dates from c1955-59
HMCMS:C2003.75

The company was also one of the numerous labels that Pattie Boyd modelled for.