A Biba dress from 1971

Last night was my first off three halloween nights out in a row. Why I do it to my liver… I am not quite sure, but I just had to share the dress I wore last night.

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I’ve always loved Biba clothes, in part because Barbara Hulanicki’s clothes were over-ridingly designed for skinny flat chested pre pubescent shaped girls with twig like arms, which pretty much describes my body type. I don’t have many pieces by Biba but all of them are real statement pieces that feel amazing to wear (you can see my post about my yellow satin Biba blouse here). This dress was a must buy for me though. These medieval sleeved Biba dresses come up on ebay relatively often, but their fabulous shape tends to represent an equally fabulous price tag. I’ve seen this design go for over £200 on a number of occasions. With this one though I struck lucky, partly because the dress hadn’t been very well listed. This number came to me costing £66 earlier this year. I was ever so happy though to find that there was a little bit of provenance with the dress, on purchasing it the original owner sent me a message through ebay about the dress,

“my mother bought the dress for her winter wedding in 1971. She travelled up from South Coast to Carnaby street to go to Biba, as it was THE place to go then as you know.”

The lady who I purchased it from went on to tell me that she had worn the dress clubbing in the 90s. I love a story like that!

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The dress needs a suitable occasion though, because as much as I would love to, doing your weekly shop in sainsburys wearing a velvet maxi dress with a thigh high split may well garner some interesting stares. I thought the dress actually had quite a Halloween like vibe to it, so it was a perfect dress to wear last night.

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The dress has so many features though that make it one of the most comfortable dresses to wear (I sort of felt like I was wearing a dressing gown I have to say) The dress fastens right down the front with velvet covered buttons, but these only go as far as the very top of your thigh meaning that the dress is almost split to knicker level. As you stride this gives the dress a sensational shape, that I couldn’t quite capture in pictures. The slim line of the dress perfectly contrasts with the huge sleeves, that are actually so big you feel like you may take off when wearing it. Although the thing I love most about this dress? The sweetheart bodice, I think this may be the only dress in the world that gives me, even with my pathetic 30b bust line, a cleavage! It was amazing actually how confident this dress made me feel, the dramatic shape of it really makes you stand up tall (oh, and perhaps the fact I was wearing 6 inch platforms!) and I certainly received a lot of interesting glances/ stares last night!

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Do you know anything about these brands?

This post follows on from my previous post on the Vogue Book of British exports. Again, it is a plea for help with my Masters research into the “Model House Group” and “Fashion House Group”. Since I have been writing this blog I have had quite a number of people contacting me as they are the children/ grandchildren of designers whom i have mentioned on my blog. Therefore I am hoping that I might just strike lucky again…

I am currently researching into a number of key British Ready-to-Wear companies (“model” houses) who were in operation in the 40s and 50s. If anyone has any interesting titbits (or owns garments by the following brands) that are pre-1965 please let me know! I am primarily interested in pieces that date from ’45 to around ’65.  In brackets I have put the brands “diffusion” lines that I am also interested in/ who the designer/ owner was. I will be posting more about my research, and what I’m up to over the next few months, but this is just me after some help by my lovely readers.

– Frederick Starke, Mr Starke is my primary concern…I’ve actually become really rather obsessed with this man! (Also Fredrica and Starke of London)

-Brenner Sports

-Mary Black

– Dorville (Olive O’Neill- designer Rose and Blairman was the parent company) (also Corvette)

-Koupy  (Chas Kuperstein)

-Elizabeth Henry

-Marcus (Marcusa) (Wanda and Otto Marcus)

-Jersey company

-Matita (Mr Adler was the owner)

-Rima (also Atrima)

-Silhouette de luxe

-Simon massey

-Susan Small  (Leslie Carr-Jones and Christopher Carr-Jones)

-Spectator sports

-Verner Vogue

For reference here are just a few ad’s from these companies. I’ve been lucky enough to go through EVERY British Vogue between 1945 and 1961, so this is where these come from. I am now just wading through the export magazine Ambassador too.



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Mary Black September 1953

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Matita June 1954

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Brenner sports September 1953

I’m particularly interested if anyone OUTSIDE the UK had garments by these brands, as the Model House Group’s primary function was to promote export of goods. So yes, If YOU have any information on any of these brands or garments from pre 1965 just drop me an email liztregenza@hotmail.com

It might be October but I’m still wearing summer dresses.

I have what can only be described as some sort of vintage “disease” which means I will quite happily wear uber summery vintage dresses even on cold October nights….which is precisely what I did on Saturday night for one of my best girls birthdays.

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The dress I chose to wear was one of my large collection of Horrockses, although it was one I haven’t actually worn before owing to the fact I originally couldn’t get it done up. I haven’t lost any weight, but after realising if I fiddled around with the position of the dress enough I could actually get it done up! The dress came from the excellent Liz Van Hasselt (you can find her here), I have previously bought some utterly fabulous Delman 1940s shoes from her that are amongst my prized possessions.

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The Horrockses is not one I have found an original advert for (yet!) but owing to the shaping of the back I guess it is probably from 1959. I particularly like the flying panel in the back, which means you have more fullness through the back than the front. It also has a Harvey Nicholls label, showing where the dress must have been purchased from! I have to say it is a particularly well made example and is fully lined with a lovely stiff petticoat underneath too. Lets hope by next summer I can still get into it!

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My apologies for the twisted strap in the pics, and the general terrible ness of the photos, these are these were just very quick snaps because I wanted an opportunity to shoe the dress off on the blog : ) I teamed the dress with (gulp) poker straight hair, and a pair of trusty 1940s American navy blue suede shoes.

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